Bologna

After an fast, hour-long train ride southeast from Milan, we arrived in Bologna for a visit with our good friends, Patrick and Todd.  Bologna is the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, and is known as a culinary center.  It is home to the 70K-student University of Bologna, which is also the oldest continuously operating university in the world.  Another, less-appreciated aspect of the city, is that it is a major train hub, allowing easy travel to a wide variety of regions around the country.

We spent 2 full days and parts of 2 others seeing the city, with a couple of day-trips to other locales mixed in (to be included in future posts).  We had a great time, though probably had a bit of a deer-in-the-headlights look trying to absorb all we were seeing.  Patrick and Todd were consummate hosts ... not only did they provide lodging, engaging conversation, private tour-guide services, and all kinds of insight and advice (think "Italy for Newbies" boot camp), but they also shared their favorite bakeries, restaurants, wine, and gelato shops!  

It definitely felt like we got a good dose of the "real" Bologna (i.e., beyond the standard tourist spots).  Of course there were numerous churches, but also parks, plazas, markets (farmers, food, and antiques).  And lots of narrow portico-lined streets (Bologna's porticos are a UNESCO Heritage site). And so great to spend some quality time with our friends!

Basilica dei Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano

Pastas for Sale, Quadrilatero

Woodwork Detail, Basilica di San Petronio

Courtyard, Basilica di Santo Stefano

Door Adornments

Skinless Man Carving at Teatro Anatomico

Serious Walking Scene

Todd and Patrick

Dome, Santuario di Santa Maria della Vita

Street Scene

Freakers by the Speakers at Anti-Government March

A quiet portico walk

More Photos

Activities

• Wandering/Sightseeing
• Basilica Di Santo Stefano
• Palazzo Isolani
• Basilica dei Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano
• Quadrilatero
  
• Piazza Maggiore
• Basilica di San Petronio
• Archiginnasio of Bologna (including Teatro Anatomico)
• Chiesa di San Salvatore
• Giardini Margherita (park)
• Mercato Antiquario (antique market)
  
• Mercato Ritrovato (farmers market)
• Palazzo Re Enzo (food festival).  
• Santuario di Santa Maria della Vita
  

Random Ideas and "Insights"

• Strikes are a common occurrence in Italy, but unlike the US, they are announced (somewhat) in advance, limited in duration, and must follow certain rules (e.g., the fast inter-city trains can't be affected).  The taxis in Bologna were on strike a couple of days before we arrived, but fortunately were back in action by the time we got there.
• The city streets in Italy are often lined with multi-story buildings with no setback.  This makes them appear even more narrow than they are.  But, in fact, most of the buildings have private courtyards inside the exterior walls.  Some are used for parking ... others for gardens and gathering spaces.
• Being outside seems to be a national pastime in Italy.  Walking, sitting for happy hour, al fresco dining, late night bars.  All year long.  Bologna's porticos make this more comfortable, by providing protection from the rain and the hot sun!
  

Random Scenes

• After exiting the taxi and being welcomed by Patrick outside his apartment building, Patrick asked Tom where his daypack was.  Oh!  It's in the taxi, which was starting to pull away!  A quick rap on the window, and the cabbie thankfully stopped.  There was probably no way to retrieve it if the taxi had left.  Whew!  A narrow escape at the start of the trip!
  
• On one visit to the local large park (Giardini Margherita), we followed our noses to what sounded like a concert ... but the music was difficult to make out clearly, and quite abrasive.  After reaching the source of the noise, it was in fact the starting point for an unsanctioned anti-government march.  And there were multiple vehicles adorned with with excessive PA systems, each cranking out different, very distorted music.  There were some "freaker by the speaker" types, walking right behind these vehicles getting their (over)dose of sound!
  

Sleeps

• L'appartamento di Patrick e Todd