White Pass and Foam Creek

With knee surgery approaching in a few weeks, and the unusually good fall weather continuing, I (Tom) felt compelled to get out one more time.  While this time of year is typically focused on the fall larch display, I felt it was perhaps my last, best chance to visit a long-standing bucket-list trip ... White Pass in the Glacier Peak area of the North Cascades.  It had been calling out to me ever since Brian went there for a week-long trail maintenance camp one summer during high school.  While the weather looked perfect, wildfire smoke was moving in and out of the area ... a potentially major buzz-kill.  But, when I spotted a few days when the smoke models suggested the winds would clear it out, I decided to take my chances and go, and trust that my fitness level was sufficient, and any pre-surgery abuse  I would inflict on my knees would be ok.  Plus, I had gotten a quick replacement for my wounded camera (see previous post), and it needed to be put through its paces!

Honestly, this hike is quite a grunt ... both on paper and in reality.  The first 6 miles of the trail follow the North Fork of the Suak River through old-growth forest, gradually gaining 1000' or so. It then gets down to serious business as it switchbacks up a steep hillside for 3000' in the next 3 miles.  The payoff, however, is open country with big views in every direction. The last 1/2 mile or so is on the PCT.  This has to be one of its most beautiful stretches ... high ridge walking through nearly continuous meadows and ever-changing views for miles. 

Immediately after departing the trailhead, I ran into a couple hiking out who alleviated one concern item ... there were a couple of small water sources near the pass, meaning that I didn't need to carry water up the mountain (which, realistically, wasn't happening).  The not-so-good news was that they were cutting their trip short by a few days due to horrible smoke!  Yikes!  The hike up the river valley was very serene, with beautiful big trees, moss, and an open lush-green understory.  Although some smoke was visible in the peek-a-boo views through the trees, it didn't look anywhere near horrible.  Another hiker (the only other one encountered that day) confirmed the bad smoke the previous night.  The switchbacks up the hills were definitely a test of endurance and mental fortitude, but the increasing views (almost straight up) of the high meadows full of fall colors provided continuing motivation.  Upon reaching the pass, I was basically toast, so I spent the late afternoon and evening relaxing and soaking up the views.  The smoke was present, but mostly just muted the visibility of distant ridges and peaks.

Dawn arrived with clear skies!!!  So Tom quickly rallied for a sunrise hike a couple of miles out the Foam Creek Trail from the pass ... for a close-up view of Glacier Peak.  This route is the primary approach to climb Glacier, and is only a real trail for less than 2 miles, after which it turns into a much rougher climbers path.  But it was all manageable to my destination.  And the sunrise, highlighting the vibrant red of the huckleberry bushes blotching the hillsides, was incredible.  Honestly, it really doesn't get any better than this ... wandering in solitude, with no agenda, and humbling beauty everywhere! 

After returning to, and wandering down the PCT a bit (where I met my only hiker of the day), I needed make a plan for the remainder of the trip ... stay, move camp, or head back towards the car.  I decided to move my camp several miles down the PCT, but, after loading up my pack and hiking up the 150' from my camp to the pass, my legs were screaming.  Staying put no longer seemed a desirable choice, since I had just packed up.  But was I really going to hike a combined 6 miles and 1400' that afternoon and the following morning, in addition to the hike out?  I pushed off the decision for a 1/2 mile or so when the two paths split.  The smoke seemed to be moving back in, and I figured my knees might force me to spend a night by the river, so I chose the downward path towards the car.  In the end, I made it out the full 9 miles that day.  Definitely tired, but with my body in one piece.  And my soul totally rejuvenated!!  A totally epic trip!

Vine Maple

Trail through old growth

I counted more than 550 rings.  How about you?

North Fork of the Suak River

The beckoning high country

Switchbacking through fall colors

(Smoky) view east from White Pass

A meaningful message hidden in a clump of trees.

Sun "setting" behind the smoke

Sunset at White Pass

Moonrise

First Light on Ridgeline

Sunrise

Early Morning Light

Monte Cristo Peaks beyond White Pass

Glacier Peak behind unnamed ridge

Relaxing with a view!

Lethargic Marmot

White Mtn.

Approaching White Pass on the Foam Creek Trail

Just Hangin'

Plump berries

Sloan Peak beyond camp

Old Growth

Fungi

More Photos

Details

• Sauk River Trail > PCT to White Pass
• Foam Creek Trail east from White Pass
• PCT south 1/2 mile south of White Pass

Random Scenes

• Heading back towards White Pass on my sunrise hike, a marmot was splayed out on the trail, seemingly enjoying the warm morning sun.  Unlike all previous marmot encounters, however, this guy didn't show any inclination to scamper off.  In fact, he kinda didn't really want to move, even when a hiking pole was shook (shaked?) in his general direction.  After a face-off (of sorts) for several minutes, I decided to go off trail around him, at which time he lumbered into his tunnel, which was immediately adjacent to where he was laying.  He was so lethargic, that I concluded he probably wasn't long for this world.

Future Ideas

• Camp a little farther south off the PCT.  Follow a path that makes a very soft right when heading south to reach a campsite with views of Glacier.  Not sure about water, but there's some not too far out the Foam Creek Trail.
• Explore south of White Pass ... looks awesome.
• Go north on the PCT over Red Pass and camp near the White Chuck Cinder Cone