Golden Lakes & Sunset Park

After numerous day hikes of increasing intensity, it was time for some backpacking. Being retired, we avoid weekends (and the associated hordes) like the plague. So, what was Tom doing backpacking on Labor Day weekend? Well, Mt Rainier's backcountry permit system strictly limits the number of people staying overnight, and most permits are reserved in advance. The reservation process has moved online, which gives people with the time and inclination the ability to frequently check availability. Cancellations occur, so Tom picked up a Saturday night reservation for Golden Lakes. Karen was invited, but opted out.

Golden Lakes is located on the Wonderland Trail towards the northern end of the western side of Mt. Rainier. This side of the mountain has very limited access, since the dirt road that extended about halfway up the west side from the south was permanently closed in the 1990s. Some 40 years ago, Tom had backpacked to Golden Lakes from that road, and it was a mere 5 miles each way. The current approach is from the north, and much more of a grind. The first 3 miles traverses a hillside before dropping about 1500 ft pretty quickly down to the north and south forks of the Mowich River. The crossings were on pretty decent logs with none-too-sturdy handrails. The trail then immediately climbs 2500 ft in about 3 miles to cross a ridge before traversing another couple miles to Golden Lakes. The way was mostly wooded, with a few peak-a-boo views and meadows along the way, but The Mountain was mostly hidden in the low clouds.

After setting up camp, Tom had a bit of a rest, then packed up his stove and dinner and headed another mile or so up the trail to explore Sunset Park, and hopefully get some views of the Big R and sunset. The clouds were uncooperative, so he retreated back to camp for dinner and sunset. On the way, though, he saw a bear munching away on blueberries, exhibiting little interest in his human observer.

The next morning, Tom woke early to clear skies, and quickly headed back up to Sunset Park for sunrise. The quiet serenity of the morning with the huge views of the mountain were awe inspiring. He wandered off the Wonderland Trail searching for the unobstructed views he remembered from his previous visit. After taking one picture, he turned around and saw a bear in VERY close proximity (40 ft? ... musta been on the other side of that small group of trees)! But again, almost no acknowledgement of the human presence, as there were blueberries to be had! Gentle words were spoken while pictures were snapped! Eventually, with the help of some old disappearing trails, Tom reached an open meadow just as the sun was hitting it. Another rush of awe! At the far end of the meadow were the big views he remembered. Unfortunately, with the sun directly behind the mountain, the photos didn't really capture it well. Perhaps that's why they didn't call it Sunrise Park!

The return trip was a bit of a grind, but mostly uneventful. Clouds closed in on the mountain again, and the hoards were in full display upon reaching the parking lot! Ah, but what a trip!