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| Mt Rainier and Carbon Glacier from Curtis Ridge |
A short break in the early-onset unsettled fall weather was all the opportunity I (Tom) was waiting for to get back in the mountains. And for the 3rd time this year, Mt Rainier National Park was the destination. The Mystic Lake area had long intrigued me, and it had finally made it to the top of my list ... the delay due in large part to the hefty 9 miles and 3200' approach. In the park, permits are required for backcountry camping, and no walk-up permits were available for the Mystic Lake Camp. But, I had a secret weapon ... a request for a "cross-country" permit, which requires you to camp at least 1/4 mile from the trail (among other restrictions). Since these permits aren't widely advertised, they're far easier to get. I was a bit hesitant, since I'd have to hike further, but the reward would (hopefully) be solitude and camping up high with a view (as opposed to the established camps in the woods). So, with permit in hand, I headed out from Sunrise, with beautiful weather and the mountain in full view.
The route I took to Mystic Lake is primarily on the Wonderland Trail, which circumnavigates the mountain. It involves starting high at Sunrise, traversing above treeline for several miles, then dropping down into the forest to get around the terminus of the Winthrop Glacier (and across Winthrop Creek and the West Fork White River), and finally climbing back up again to Mystic Lake. Up high, the views of the mountain and the lesser peaks were incredible, and made progress a bit of a challenge. The forested portion was less grand, but the classic northwest mix of ancient trees, ferns, mosses, and other understory plants provided a palpable sense of calm. The terminus of the glacier was very impressive ... hiking beside what looks like a giant pile of rocks a hundred feet thick, only to realize that it's rocks on top of the glacier ice!
After the climb up from the glacier, I finally reached Mystic Lake, and realized that the view of the mountain was largely obscured by a Mineral Peak, which is very near to the lake. Fog and low clouds were also rolling in from the far side of the ridge past the lake, dampening my mood (and the views). Another mile or so on the Wonderland Trail, and it was time to head off-trail to locate a place to camp. As the fog thickened and visibility dropped, I was feeling a bit nervous, since I didn't know the territory and was concerned about getting lost. But a clear boot path led me from the main trail to the area I was intending to camp ... serving as a lifeline back to the security of the Wonderland Trail. I pitched my tent in a lovely site on the top of a knoll. With no views and the temperature dropping, I ate an early dinner and slipped my tired body into my sleeping bag by about 6 pm ... hoping for clearing in the morning.
At some point during the night, I peeked out of the tent window, and saw that the fog had cleared, and there was an outline of a huge mountain against the stars! Yesss! About an hour before sunrise, as the darkness was starting to fade, I excitedly hopped out of bed (I was a bit restless after 12 hours anyway) to watch the sunrise and take some pictures. And it was absolutely stunning! I hiked out a bit further (to the crest of Curtis Ridge) where I had an unobstructed view of the monstrous Carbon Glacier as it tumbled from the Willis Wall out of site some 5 or more miles downhill. The photos don't do justice to the immensity of it all. The mountain's summit was about 45 degrees up from the horizontal, and the arms were seemingly 180 degrees wide! The feeling was overwhelming. Incredible awe. Humbling. Inspiring. And standing there soaking it all in, I realized just how truly fortunate I am to have such a special and amazing place to visit on little more than a whim.
I eventually had to tear myself away from it all, head back to camp, pack up, and retrace my (long) path back to Sunrise ... with a bit of spring in my step! The return trip was uneventful, but the weather was perfect, and the views as outstanding as the previous day! Quite a special trip!
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| Burroughs Mtn and Mt Rainier |
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| Little Tahoma |
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| Mt Rainier behind Burroughs Mtn |
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| Sluiskin Mtn - The Squaw and The Chief (l to r) |
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| Bridge across Winthrop Creek |
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| Observation and Echo Rocks above Winthrop Creek Drainage |
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| Burroughs Mtn above terminus of Winthrop Glacier |
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| Mystic Lake |
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| A Tent with a View |
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| Liberty Ridge at Sunrise |
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| Early Morning Light on Liberty Cap Glacier |
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| Old Desolate and Mystic Lake |
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| Upper Ptarmigan Ridge |
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| Your's Truly on Curtis Ridge |
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| A Tent with a Better View |
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| Unnamed minor peak below Curtis Ridge |
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| Frosty Flora |
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| Mt Rainier behind Mineral Peak from Mystic Lake |
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| Mountain Ash Berries |
Activities
- Backpacking from Sunrise to Mystic Lake with an extension to the lower end of Curtis Ridge.
"Oh Wow!" Moments
- Big views of the mountain around every turn!!
- Sunrise on the mountain from Curtis Ridge!!!
Random Scenes
- Heading into the dense fog past Mystic Lake, I was wondering whether my association of "Mystic" with "mystique" was correct, or should it have been with "mist"??
- Waking sometime during the night to the tapering off of some really loud noise. Hmmm. Must be a major ice fall! Heard plenty of smaller ones throughout the night.
Random Questions
- Are those doves up here? Not sure, but maybe mourning doves or band-tailed pigeons.
- What is that bird floating on the lake that keeps diving for food? It's not a duck! Probably an American Dipper.
Tom's Daily Stress Points
- Having to face my growing uncertainty with heights crossing several log-bridges. The one across fairly small Glacier Creek -- somewhat flattened on top, but wet and no railing -- had enough height that a fall would have been a problem. The one across Winthrop Creek had a railing, but the creek was really a powerful river! (stress level = medium)
- Heading out into the unknown in a near white-out!! (stress level = medium)
Sleeps
- On top of the 6300' knoll due west of Mystic Lake. Get there via a boot path heading west from the high point between Mystic Lake and Dick's Creek Camp.
Future Ideas
- Camp on Curtis Ridge (fair weather only)!!
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