See ya' New Zealand!

And, sadly, our trip to New Zealand came to end. Basically, it was 4 weeks of awesomeness. An incredibly beautiful place, with seemingly infinite variety. BIG country, and very rural. Sticking to just the South Island proved to be a great decision for us, allowing a less hurried pace and flexibility. And we still left plenty of things undone. Here are some parting thoughts, and a few more photos.

Statistics

Days: 27
Different places slept: 18
Driving Distance: 2,900 km (1,600 mi)
Tramping Distance: 185 km (110 mi)
Tramping Elevation Gain/Loss: 5,200 m (17,100 ft)
Distance flown: 25,100 km (15,100 mi)

Misc. Travel Tips

Our go-to guidebook for activities was NZ Frenzy - South Island, by Scott Cook (3rd Edition). The book's focus is on finding off-the-beaten-track activities, and how to beat (or at least minimize) the crowds. It spans a wide range of difficulty levels. And the advice was consistently spot on.
We went during the fall shoulder season, so lodging wasn't a problem. We tended to figure out a plan a few days ahead of time, and Karen would work her magic and find good places to stay (using a combo of our guide books and expedia, booking, and wotif). There's a wide range of options, but major hotels are not one of them. Many of the places we stayed had a range of offerings ... from en-suite (i.e., with private bath) to private rooms with shared bath to shared bunk room. We tended to be mostly in the middle level, and prices were reasonable (NZ$75 per night, or so), but we splurged on occasion!
While we didn't use them much, the iSite locations (in most of the major towns) were totally awesome. They're like a government-run travel agency ... they know what's possible, are willing to talk with you at length and work out a plan ... and get the reservations and tickets for you.
We rented a car for the whole time. While it was a bit expensive, and we left it sitting unused for a good chunk of time while while we were on tramps, it worked very well for us. It gave us flexibility to go when and where we wanted, and a place to keep our stuff when we were tramping. That being said, it's totally possible to get around by various bus/shuttle services. Even to tramping carparks ... which opens lots of opportunities for extended 1-way tramps. It just takes more time and effort to figure it all out. And camper vans are quite popular, and there seemed to be lots of holiday parks (think KOA campgrounds) that were set up for tent, van, or cabin camping. And there's lots of Dept of Conservation (DOC) campgrounds, too! But the narrow, winding roads with a big vehicle didn't seem like a good fit for us, especially driving on the wrong side of the road!
Finding a cheap cooler (or any cooler for that matter) in the fall can be difficult, since all the summer gear is sold out. We ended up getting a flat Styrofoam box used for transporting shellfish from a grocery store. Not ideal, but pretty functional. And it was free, to boot!
Keep in mind that the sun tends to be in the north, not the south. My sense of direction was screwed up royally for at least the first week.

Money

The favorable exchange rate (for us, at least), plus the sales tax included in the price, plus the lack of any expected tipping makes that NZ$20 burger more like US$10 ... much more manageable. So, it wasn't as expensive as it often seemed.

Places we'd still like to visit

Arrowtown (near Queenstown). We heard it is as beautiful as Queenstown, but without all the tourist hubbub and adrenaline adventures.
A multi-day tramp on a non-Great Track. Unlike the Great Tracks, "regular" tracks have no reservations at the huts (so it might suggest carrying a tent), and the huts aren't as nice. This weeds out many of the near-throngs on the Great Tracks. It might mean carrying a bit more (tent, stove), but the solitude and flexibility would likely be worth it. Perhaps the Rees-Dart Track.
Karamea, on the north end of the west coast. It looks quiet, with some awesome beaches and hiking (including one end of the Hephy Track).
Arthur's Pass. Definitely beautiful country, and we had to hurry through due to weather and time constraints.
Kaikorra, north of Christchurch on the east coast. The drive is supposed to be stunning, but was closed due to a massive earthquake a few months prior to our arrival.
Banks Peninsula a bit east of Christchurch. The drive to Akaroa appears to be awesome.
The Dunedin area, on the southern east coast. Penguins, seals, beautiful beaches. And the town's supposed to have a good vibe, too.